LAWN TIPS

Here are FIVE Tips for a Beautiful Lawn:

  • Water
  • Mow
  • Fertilize
  • Maintain
  • Monitor

Healthy grass resists disease and insects, and recovers faster than neglected grass

1. WATER - Your lawn needs about 25-millimetres (mm) or 1-inch of water a week – including rain – when it is actively growing in summer. You can keep track of this with a simple tin can rain gauge. If you do need to water, avoid frequent light watering, which results in shallow rooting. Instead, water in one session until your gauge registers 25 mm. Water evenly and slowly enough so that it penetrates the soil without running off. Avoid over watering. Saturated soil prevents air from reaching the root zone where it's required.


2. MOW - Proper mowing keeps grass healthy and beautiful. It is possible to ruin a good lawn in a few weeks. Sharp mower blades are the key to a smooth finish; dull blades leave ragged brown tips.

  • SAFETY FIRST: Remove all objects from the lawn before you mow to prevent injury to others and to prevent damage to the mower. Wear long pants and proper footwear. Read your mower manual safety tips.
  • HOW SHORT? We recommend mowing Bluegrass and Fescue at a height of 4 cm. Set the height of your mower blade by placing it on a driveway or sidewalk, and measuring the distance between the blade and the sidewalk.
  • HOW OFTEN? Never remove more than 3 cm of the leaf height at once. Don't let grass grow so tall that it falls over. The taller the grass, the less dense the lawn and the higher the chance of weed infestation.
  • CLIPPINGS: If you mow frequently, the fine clippings will decompose quickly and help fertility. Heavier clippings must be removed or they will smother the lawn.

3. FERTILIZE - How much fertilizer your lawn needs depends on soil fertility, the type of grass and how much growth you want. Fertilizer is labeled with the ratio of three elements: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. We recommend any special grass fertilizer made by a reputable manufacturer. It should contain controlled-release nitrogen.

A bluegrass lawn 10 by 10 meters (100 m²) needs 2 to 3 kilograms (kg) of nitrogen, 1 to 1.5 kg of phosphorous and 1 to 1.5 kg of potassium per year. Apply half the annual amount in spring, a quarter in early summer and a quarter in fall. Always water in the fertilizer to prevent burning. Don't fertilize in extreme heat. Be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging. If you have questions about how much fertilizer you need or which formula is best, consult your local garden center.


4. MAINTAIN

RELIEVING COMPACTED TURF - Compacted soil prevents water, air and nutrients from reaching grass roots. Heavy (such as clay) or wet soils are prone to compaction, especially in high traffic areas.

Core aeration relieves soil compaction by removing small cores of turf and soil to open up or "aerate" the lawn. You can rent an aerator at a local equipment rental shop or ask a landscape professional to do the job. Aeration is usually done in spring once the lawn is dry enough to work.

THATCH - A healthy, well-maintained lawn should have minimal thatch. Thatch is an accumulation of old leaves, clippings, stems, roots, and other organic material that has failed to decay. It prevents water and fertilizer from percolating into the root zone. Thatch may harbor fungus and other diseases, as well as insect pests. Vigorous raking removes thatch. If you're not up to raking, you can rent a vertical mower or hire a lawn specialist to remove the thatch. Vertical mowers have blades that cut out thatch and thin matted growth.


5. MONITOR

DROUGHT - Grass is resilient. If you are unable to water your lawn, it is good to know that Bluegrass goes dormant during dry weather. Even though it looks brown, it will green up again with watering or rain.

WEEDS - The best weed control is a good, healthy turf. When your lawn is thick and vigorous, weeds can't get a foothold. The best season to manage weeds is when they are growing vigorously in spring and early summer when temperatures are in the 20°C range. Small numbers of weeds can be manually removed. For extensive areas, we recommend consulting your local home or garden center or a landscape professional. Once the weeds are identified, they will recommend a weed-management program, which may require pre-emergent and/or post-emergent applications.

INSECTS - The sooner you detect and identify insect pests, the better your chance of success. White grubs: These fat white grubs move into the root zone to munch your lawn. Evidence includes browning patches and bird or wildlife feeding activity. If you suspect their presence, remove a block of sod and count the grubs. More than 5 grubs per square foot may require treatment. Sod webworm is a lively brown worm about 2 cm. long that feeds on grass and causes the grass to turn brown. Chinch bugs are small black insects about 0.5 cm long, which suck the juices from the grass plant. The damage shows as large irregular yellowish brown patches, usually along the edge of a sidewalk, curb or foundation.

RENOVATING WORN TURF - Proper grass management will keep your lawn healthy and looking good. This may include yearly aeration or removal of thatch. However, if your lawn has worn areas, damage from insects or weedy areas, it may need renovation. The best option for grass renovation is ConGroup's grass sod. Given proper installation, watering and mowing, ConGroup's grass can be laid throughout the growing season. It delivers instant satisfaction. Solve any weed or insect problems first. Get help for advice on managing insects or weeds and consult your local landscape specialist or garden center. Always follow the guidelines provided by your landscape professional or garden center and be aware that certain chemical products may be restricted in your area.

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